New Rant Thread

[Twelvefret]

For decades now or so it seems, purchase price generally seems to be the primary motivating factor for consumers and manufacturers. So many consumer items across the board in most industries are designed first and foremost to be inexpensively mass produced. I’ve learned it often pays to pay more upfront because it generally costs less in the long run. As an example, our decades old hand operated can opener needed replacing. I bought the least expensive of the three options ($8, $12 and $16) two months ago. It sucks. It’s nearly inoperable. I must replace it, only this time will buy the top priced unit.

I’ve had one several years and have given them away as gifts. https://libertytabletop.com/product/ez-duz-it-can-opener/

 

[R181]

For decades now or so it seems, purchase price generally seems to be the primary motivating factor for consumers and manufacturers. So many consumer items across the board in most industries are designed first and foremost to be inexpensively mass produced. I’ve learned it often pays to pay more upfront because it generally costs less in the long run. As an example, our decades old hand operated can opener needed replacing. I bought the least expensive of the three options ($8, $12 and $16) two months ago. It sucks. It’s nearly inoperable. I must replace it, only this time will buy the top priced unit.

There are times when going cheap is a false economy.

Bob

 

[slapo]

There are times when going cheap is a false economy.

Bob

Part of the overall issue is that expensive doesn't necessarily guarantee quality either.
I'm pretty sure that had always been the case, but sleek marketing can do wonders before people find out.

I found it sensible to buy something midrange, usually, but it's also difficult to tell where it really starts, and some brands have decent low ranges as well.

 

[MntnMan62]

Part of the overall issue is that expensive doesn't necessarily guarantee quality either.
I'm pretty sure that had always been the case, but sleek marketing can do wonders before people find out.

I found it usually sensible to buy something midrange, but it's also difficult to tell where it really starts, and some brands have decent low ranges as well.

I over research EVERYTHING. But I do believe that flaw has saved me lots of money over the years. Nothing ticks me off more than buying something, paying good money for it, only to have it either not work as intended or not work at all, which is more often than should happen. If I'm buying online, I read lots of reviews and ratings to better understand what's going on. Sometimes negative ratings can be just idiots who don't have a clue. But they can also be extremely revealing. I seldom read positive reviews. I don't feel they provide much information than I already have. And I have found that price in today's economy is NOT an indicator of "better". As a result, I rarely buy the cheapest item unless there is good justification. I often tend to be sort of in the middle. Sure, I've paid the price for top of the line stuff but that is because there was good reason. My Audi A6 has been the best car I have ever had from a combination of reliability and driving enjoyment standpoint. My Volvo S60 before it was the best car I ever had from a pure maintenance standpoint but driving enjoyment fell short. I guess like anything, sometimes you get what you pay for and other times you don't.

 

[MntnMan62]

I'll only add one thing to what I've said. Sometimes, research doesn't result in getting the right thing. Nothing is perfect.

 

[slapo]

I'll only add one thing to what I've said. Sometimes, research doesn't result in getting the right thing. Nothing is perfect.

I'm in a similar boat in that I do like to investigate what I'm about to buy until it becomes clear that doing more of it wouldn't likely yield useful information.
Sometimes, though, the information is scant, and I manage to find the right piece of information after unpacking the product, accidentally tearing the packaging in the process (even though I always try to be careful), and finding out that it isn't quite what wanted, performance or otherwise.
Bad apples happen, too.

Then there's somewhat personal stuff like shaving gear, where the actual performance depends on usage, ability and compatibility. Then it's difficult to make an informed decision without making at least one purchase.

 

[Cheesepiece]

There is another forum that talks incessantly about JIS screw heads also.

Whatever that is.

I put some liquid soap on the screw threads and leave the powered driver for other jobs, slow and steady wins the race.

Japanese industrial standard.
A must have for working on any Japanese-produced vehicles. I have a set of JIS drivers and they come in handy.
It's unlikely they'd help erecting a timber fence as JIS are unlikely to make an appearance there.

 

[Vacumatic]

Japanese industrial standard.
A must have for working on any Japanese-produced vehicles. I have a set of JIS drivers and they come in handy.
It's unlikely they'd help erecting a timber fence as JIS are unlikely to make an appearance there.

First thing that I used to do with any new Japanese motorcycle was to take an impact driver, the old fashioned type that you hit with a hammer, to all the JIS bolts and replace them with chrome Allen/hex bolts in steel.

 

[Zorro]

use your power driver to drill a small pilot hole, then use a (correct) hand screwdriver + some of your body weight to SLOWLY press and turn the screw in.

I do this with any exterior woods, because they can be tight - so find a drill bit thats about half the width of the screw and use your power drill to quickly drill a pilot hole - makes the "screwing" (ooo err Matron) a lot easier

 

[Zorro]

There is another forum that talks incessantly about JIS screw heads also.

Whatever that is.

I put some liquid soap on the screw threads and leave the powered driver for other jobs, slow and steady wins the race.

Ooo now then japan industrial standard is a whole conversation thread on its own - especially if you own motorcycles. They are a little more pointy than Phillips, but you can get by with a Phillips equivalent if you go carefully

All you really need in life is; Philips #2 screwdriver, long shaft straight 2mm screwdriver, and a Posidriv PH0 screwdriver + a pair of pipe grips

With this you can fix anything

 

[Vacumatic]

Things have changed so much. It was drummed into me that you never use adjustable spanners, ring spanners and socket sets were to be used in preference to open spanners, I had a set of Allen keys, my impact driver with 3 different bits and a spark plug socket, a leather faced hammer that I hand made and that was it. Now I need star keys and a port for diagnostics, I used to use my ears and eyes and with Lucas electrics my nose.

 

[Chris]

Japanese industrial standard.
A must have for working on any Japanese-produced vehicles. I have a set of JIS drivers and they come in handy.
It's unlikely they'd help erecting a timber fence as JIS are unlikely to make an appearance there.

A JIS screwdriver is good for stubborn Phillips screws.

 

[JamieM]

I'm a Carpenter Joiner, so you would imagine I have used a few screws in my work through the decades.

 

[SpeedyPC]

I'm a Carpenter Joiner, so you would imagine I have used a few screws in my work through the decades.

Make a lot more sense.

 

[TheChrisC]

I have learned so much about screws in the past 24 hours thanks to this forum