What might I be doing wrong? Newbie to DE shaving

[sonofgaladriel]

Hello Everyone!
I've been reading the many forums for a few weeks now as I've just entered the DE wet shaving club. Been using twin blade disposables for many years and just recently got the bug to give DE shaving a try. I've watched many shaving tutorials on youtube, Kensurf being my favorite, hoping to learn some good tips.
I'm on my 4th attempt using a 'Rough Stache' DE razor and badger brush (was a gift and has good reviews on Amazon) with a Van Der Hagen blade (all I had on hand). Using Proraso white sensitive pre shave, Proraso white sensitive shaving cream, and the same white aftershave balm. I'm trying the 3 pass shave, but finding that I start getting some irritation after the second pass and have skipped the 3rd pass on my first 3 shaves. My last shave, I made it through the 3 passes and felt pretty good directly afterwards, but a few hours later, the irritation really started to set in significantly. My skin under my chin and neck looked fairly raw by mid day. I couldn't shave this morning as it was still very irritated.
Is it likely still my technique or could it be the hardware? I just received some Astra superior platinum blades that I'll try tonight. I'm wondering if I would do better with a single edge safety razor?
Thanks for any tips on what I know is limited amount of information.

 

[Paul L]

I suspect it's a mixture of lack of technique and your hardware

The razor head looks to me to be a DE89 clone. I say looks like - but it might shave very differently
I've never heard of the blades you are using, so can't comment on them, but - I'm sure there are better blades

Having been used to using cartridge razors, you are likely applying too much pressure (which you can get away with when using carts) , with DE/SE razors this will only end in irritation and bloodshed

Your choice of shave cream is good, but are you getting good lather ?
what brush are you using?
Can you post a photo of your lather?

Watching some tutorial videos would be of benefit to all those new to DE shaving.

Mark, Mantic59 has some good video's on his website and YouTube

WATCH THESE FIRST! Introduction to Traditional Wet Shaving

How to get a really good shave

www.youtube.com

 

[Chris]

Most probably technique, especially if you’re only four shaves in. Your gear is a bit of an unknown quantity, the razor appears to be a Chinese copy of an EJ 89, if they’ve done it well it'll be good but then again it may not be. I have no idea what a Van Der Hagen blade will be like but Astra SP are liked by many and there’s nothing wrong with Proraso.

I'd avoid going against the grain at this stage, concentrate on getting your shaves irritation-free and the closeness will come. Chasing closeness can lead to over-shaving and that will cause irritation. Make sure you don’t use any pressure, if you press down like you do with a cartridge you’re in for a bad time, and watch your angle as the razor won’t adjust it for you.

Lather is crucial, judge it on feel and not how it looks, I like mine on the sloppier side like yogurt as I find it slicker that way.

Good luck and keep us posted.

 

[MPH]

I can't add much more, but for me bad irritation has generally been due to wrong blade angle, or/and unprotecting lather.

The most important for me is blade angle, which you could have got right for 'with the grain', but wrong for ATG. If it's wrong your just pulling a very sharp blade across your skin, scraping the top layer off.... Ouch.

Keep practicing with your new blades, with no pressure and you'll crack it.

Also... Have a look which way you hair grows... What you believe is 'with the grain', may not be.

 

[les24preludes]

Like Chris says, sloppy lather. It isn't called "wet" shaving for nothing.

What you are going to need is SHARP blades, like Nacet, Gillette Silver Blue, maybe Astra SP. As for the razor, it should be efficient enough. I have a preference for open comb like R41, or Gillette Old Type or Fatip if you want a little less efficient. I also LOVE the Micromatic Clog-Pruf but my friend finds it too aggressive. I would struggle with a EJ89 clone, frankly. Too mild and that means too many passes and irritation. I also use bigger diameter handles but not heavier - like 60-70g.

The reason I like efficient razors is that it's usually the amount of strokes that starts to irritate. I only use one pass and then cleanups. I did some careful face mapping to find which way the hair grows. So the cleanups go in different directions, against or across the grain after the first pass. I don't shave more than every 2 days, but I get very smooth shaves so that works for me.

Face mapping is essential. You want to be as economic with your strokes as possible. Just enough to do the job, and be intelligent about the directions you cut in to avoid duplication. Once you have the routine mastered - it took me at least a week - it becomes second nature. And don't hoard blades. Three or four shaves is quite enough for a blade. They're cheap in 100s. I get my Nacets from Jordan on eBay. Genuine, too.

 

[Chris]

One more thing: other than blades don’t be tempted to keep buying new things to get a better shave, technique is king, not equipment.

 

[mar]

Like others mentioned make sure you know which direction your hair grows and do not go atg until you get no irritation. What helped me also, was to not go over a spot more than once during each pass , resisting temptation to clean it even if it left much stubble. It is better to completely lather whole face again and have a second wtg pass instead of going repeatedly over the same spots without lather. If you still get irritation, better go 3 wtg passes and non xtg or atg at all until you manage to do this without irritation. Also allow your face to heal completely (check both visually and by touching your face to make sure it does not sting) before trying again.

 

[sonofgaladriel]

Thank you to each of you for the great suggestions and advice! I will certainly apply it all to be sure!
Paul- Thanks for the video link. I watched those just now and did learn some nice tips!
I'm quite sure now that I'm trying to do too much too soon.
My lather is likely not wet enough, thick yes, but not very wet. I'll improve that.
I'll stick to a 'with the grain' shave for a few weeks and learn my hair growth direction. I've never shaved cross grain or against the grain before with my cartridge razors so no doubt my skin is not ready for that.
I'm sure I'm applying too much pressure on the razor as well so I'll back off a bit.
I'll wait another day or two for my next shave to give my skin time to heal properly.
Thanks again everyone! You're a great group!

 

[les24preludes]

You'll have to make up your own mind by trial and error in the end. We all have equipment and routines that suit our particular skins and beards. Some like 3 passes, some 2 passes, some like me prefer one pass and cleanups. The main thing is low pressure and positive strokes. Stretching the skin helps. That's a whole other thing, and very good for cleanups. Cleanups can be WTG, ATG or XTG according to what you've already cut. Duplicate as little as possible. And you can splash some more lather on for each cleanup part of your face. If you use a synthetic brush and face lather there'll be plenty of soap left on the brush.

 

[Deleted member 1881]

A more slick cream would help but I don't want to bring you down to the rabbit hole.

It is very dark down here.

You unintentionally press down, that is the biggest problem I believe.

 

[TobyC]

Three passes is not a requirement, neither is BBS. I do one pass with cleanup where necessary, you will have to find out what's best for you.

Don't use a steep blade angle, keep it shallow, put the cap on your face and rotate down until you feel it shave, that's the right angle.

 

[sonofgaladriel]

Thanks for that pic. I think I'm at too steep an angle along with all my other faults!

 

[Deleted member 1881]

Three passes is not a requirement, neither is BBS. I do one pass with cleanup where necessary, you will have to find out what's best for you.

Don't use a steep blade angle, keep it shallow, put the cap on your face and rotate down until you feel it shave, that's the right angle.

I am shaving, holding the razor like the left picture.

 

[TobyC]

I am shaving, holding the razor like the left picture.

So,... you have a beard?

 

[Pattorashu]

Welcome to the forum!

I definitely recommend staying away from the three pass shaves until you get your technique down. I have been using a DE for 8 years or so (I always forget how long lol) and I still get irritation after 3 pass sometimes.

As TobyC showed, that's a great way to find the angle.

Just let the razor ride on your face, don't press it at all. Just enough pressure to control the direction of the razor head, IMO.

I prefer my lather right past the "soft peaks" stage, where the tips of the peak of when you pull the brush out droops, but I prefer most of it to droop over. Any more and it just goes everywhere or doesn't last on the face, any less I feel like it's yogurt.

Welcome again, and here's to many happy shaves.