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PART ONE - HISTORICAL DATA - WHZ AND HOW WAS BORN RFB AND WHO MADE HIM
I originally intended to write about RFB razors in another post. However, as I sorted data after data, wanting to chronologically completely illuminate the history of my favorite family of the double-edged razors, I got a preaty much mammoth post. I apologize in advance if it is too extensive, but I hope that it will at least provide all the information about RFB razors in one place.
Alsto huugh thanks to Leonard Jacobs also better known as Jake for huuugh amount of historical data I used in this post.
RFB stands for "raised flat bottom”. This is the generic name (given by collectors and the wet shaving community) to a family of razors that includes many different models and manufacturers, and that have been produced over a period of 20 or so years from 1930’s to some 1950’s.
Key feature of the RFB Razors is Base Plate Design: unlike the standard American Gillette NEW models which have a recessed slot, the RFB has a completely flat bottom plate with a distinctly raised center ridge where the blade rests.
RFB razors include several models made by the following manufacturers:
So we start with 7 O’clock. WHY? Well because they because they created something that should have enabled the further evolution of Gillette and the revolution of wet shaving SLOTED DE BLADE .
Henry Gaisman founded 7 O'Clock razor company around 1914–1915. As the founder of the AutoStrop Safety Razor Company, Gaisman launched 7 O'Clock as a closely related British subsidiary. Because they were part of the same corporate umbrella, AutoStrop and 7 O'Clock freely shared manufacturing patents to compete directly with Gillette
The Slot Design: 7 O'Clock's major contribution to shaving history was inventing a specific slot pattern for razor blades. By integrating this slot alongside Gillette’s existing three-hole punch design, 7 O'Clock created a blade that could fit multiple razor types, securing a massive competitive advantage.
The British patent numbers 272 629 and 272 763 are legendary in wet-shaving history, as they represent the literal pivot point where 7 O'Clock forced Gillette into an architectural redesign of their razors.
These specific numbers refer to the "slotted blade" patents filed in the late 1920s by the 7 O'Clock Razor Co. (under their corporate vehicle, The Sunbeam Razor Co. Ltd. of London/Sheffield). The Strategy: To protect their market share in the UK and Europe, Henry Gaisman and his team did not file the new "slotted blade" designs directly under the famous 7 O'Clock or AutoStrop names. Instead, they utilized The Sunbeam Razor Co. Ltd. of London/Sheffield as their legal vehicle to quietly register the patents.
What These Patents Protected. Prior to these patents, Gillette blades used a simple three-hole alignment system (a center hole for the handle screw and two outer holes for alignment studs). Gillette held a monopoly on this design
To beat the monopoly, 7 O'Clock engineered and patented:The Longitudinal Slot: A long center cutout that connected the alignment holes. The "Universal Fit": This slot design allowed 7 O'Clock blades to perfectly fit Gillette’s existing three-pin razors, but it also fit 7 O'Clock's own proprietary "bar alignment" razors.
Why They Are Printed Together? If you look at a vintage 1930s Gillette Goodwill safety razor, a 1930s 7 O'Clock box, or international vintage newspaper advertisements, you will often see "BRIT. PAT. NOS. 272629 - 272763" stamped side-by-side. When Gillette realized these two British patents effectively allowed a competitor to steal their blade market share, they didn't just copy the idea—they bought the patents. Following the 1930s acquisition, Gillette legally adopted the 7 O'Clock slot configuration and was legally required to stamp these exact patent numbers onto their newly designed Goodwill and New type razors to protect their newly acquired intellectual property.
Rotbart.
Once there was Hugo Büchner. Hugo Buchner had started his razor blade production in 1907 in Berlin. The Büchner factory had originally been a mechanical workshop, but eventually grew into a factory for machines and other devices. Hugo Büchner produced razor blades at this factory, beginning in 1907, first using the “Luna” brand, later “Mond-Extra”.
Otto Roth started his company in 1913 under the name Roth & Linder G.m.b.H. (the equivalent of an American L.L.C.) Prior to this time, Roth was employed as chief engineer for Hugo Büchner. During the WWI (1914 to 1918), Otto Roth’s practical and well-made razor blades became quite successful, especially among the younger German soldiers. During WWI, German soldiers began to transition from straight edge razors to double edged razors and blades. As a result, during and after the Great War, German men became a major market for razors and razor blades. Following WWI, the German razor blade industry gained increased momentum and developed into a major competitor for Gillette. Gillette’s marketing strategy had been to sell inexpensive razors and relatively pricey blades, whereas German companies produced high quality blades in large quantities, and sold them at relatively low prices so they could supply the entire European market.
The company began to dominate the German market with its razor and blade products. In 1918 Roth changed the company into the Otto Roth G.m.b.H., and then in the year 1921, by conversion, into an Aktiengesellschaft or A.G., (the equivalent of an American P.L.C.), which created an even more favorable structure for the business.
In 1919 – Otto Roth registered the Rotbart trademark. Otto Roth’s surname, Roth, is pronounced in German almost the same as the word “rot” which is German for the word “red”. Rotbart means “red beard”, which might have been a good shaving brand name on its own. However Red Beard, or in Italian “Barbarossa” was also the nickname of the German Holy Roman Emperor Frederick I, the red-bearded hero, a symbol of German unity, which probably was the reason why the brand name Rotbart was such a perfect choice for razors and blades made for the German market.
The repeated expansions and relocations of the production centers of Roth's company are indications of the rapid growth of the Otto Roth A.G. Eventually, in 1925, Roth took over his main rival Büchner-Werke A. G., and through this merger, ended his main competitive rivalry. Their widely renowned and high-quality products were jointly distributed under the brand "Rotbart/Mond-Extra".
Enter Gillette
As a result of this growth of Otto Roth’s shaving products’ business, in 1926 Gillette (although they had already established a relatively strong presence in Germany) purchased a controlling interest in Roth-Büchner, one of it's most successful competitors. At this time, Roth-Büchner produced highly recognized products, and was producing over 250 private label brands of double edged razor blades and razors. Principal among these were its own Rotbart, Rothbart, Minors, and Luxuosa brands. Roth-Büchner Aktiengesellschaft was headquartered in Berlin, and had been there since the merger of Otto Roth and Hugo Büchner, in 1925.
When Gillette purchased controlling interest in Roth-Büchner, Otto Roth was named the General Director for all of Gillette's European interests, and maintained his offices in Berlin, while managing several razor and blade factories throughout Europe.
Establishing a plant in the United States was considered a risky proposition; but, in 1926, Gillette opened a small Roth-Buchner branch at 11 - 15 East Runyon Street in Newark; New Jersey. This, the same location that was originally leased by King Gillette, in 1905, for his brother Mott, and a mechanical engineer named Leach King. Mott was in charge of razor case design, while Leach was designing and building machinery for the Boston, Canadian, and new European factories. It was to Leach, that Gillette, in 1907, desiring to offer for sale a more compact "pocket edition" razor, sent the legendary Italian bracelet, which inspired Leach's designs for the future American Button Company Pocket Edition sets.
The following year, 1927, Gillette ventured further towards gaining full control of it's competition, by purchasing Otto Roth, a subsidiary of Roth- Buchner, which had not been included in the original purchase. The Otto Roth subsidiary produced the Gentleman Otto razor, and the Royal Crown (1928), and Cosmopolitan (1929), blades. By 1927, razor blade production at Roth Buchner had achieved the volume of one million blades daily.
Now we have to go to 1928 january 14. Henry Jaques Gaisman, founder and head of AutoStrop safety razor received further patents on his new blade, assigned them to Probak Corp.
Henry J. Gaisman’s 1928 patent refers to the Probak “butterfly” blade, an innovative double-edged safety razor blade with a filigree design in its center. Engineered to fit Gillette razors while avoiding existing patents, the success of this technology forced Gillette to merge with Gaisman's company, AutoStrop. Gaisman developed this blade and founded the Probak Razor Corporation in 1928. The specific details of this pivotal period include:
The Patent: Gaisman was awarded a foundational patent on an improved, specific "H" holed blade on February 7, 1928. A reissue patent was later granted in January 1930.
To understand why Henry Gaisman’s Probak patent was so dangerous to Gillett you have to look at the specific legal mechanics, production engineering, and corporate timing of the late 1920s.
It was not just a question of having a slot; it was about the legal priority of the specific geometry and manufacturing process of that slot..
Henry Gaisman filed his patent for the specific "H-shaped" and butterfly filigree cutout earlier, and he was awarded U.S. Patent RE17567E on January 14, 1930.
Gillette was still waiting on their own pending patents for their new "Kroman" slotted blade. Because Gaisman's patent was approved first, Gaisman legally owned the rights to the specific blade geometry required to fit into modern, alignment-bar safety razors.
2. Backward Compatibility vs. Forward Lockout
Gillette's entire business model relied on selling blades to the millions of men who already owned old Gillette razors (which aligned blades using three round studs). Gillette wanted to introduce a new razor with a solid alignment bar, requiring a new slotted blade, so they could renew their monopoly
.Gaisman's Masterstroke: Gaisman designed the Probak butterfly slot so it would perfectly fit both the old Gillette three-pin razors and Gillette's upcoming alignment-bar razors.
The Threat: If Gillette launched their new razor, a customer could just buy a cheaper Probak blade to put inside it. Gillette was about to lose the monopoly on their own future razor before it even launched
3. The "Continuous Strip" Manufacturing Advantage
For decades, Gillette manufactured blades by stamping them out of sheet metal individual-by-individual.Gaisman figured out a method to manufacture blades using a continuous strip of steel, which was significantly cheaper, faster, and prevented the blades from warping or cracking during the tempering process.Gaisman’s patent didn't just cover the slot's shape; it protected the exact structural perforations necessary to allow a continuous strip of brittle steel to be processed and flexed without breaking. Gillette’s engineers tried to copy this method for their new blade, directly violating Gaisman's production patent.
4. The Knockout Blow: Gillette's Financial Fraud
When AutoStrop/Probak officially sued Gillette for patent infringement in April 1930, Gillette's legal team realized they were highly likely to lose. To save themselves, Gillette proposed a buyout/merger. However, during the mandatory financial audit required for the merger, Gaisman’s accountants discovered that Gillette had been artificially inflating its earnings reports for years to hide declining sales. Armed with both a superior patent and proof of corporate fraud that would ruin Gillette on Wall Street, Gaisman had complete leverage. He forced the merger on his own terms, taking control of Gillette and becoming its chairman.
So now we have all:
Three brands that made RFB Gillete, Rotbart and 7 O’clock and blade which need new razor.
So who made first RFB?
Gillette - simple as that.
When Gillette released its "NEW" long-comb safety razor design in 1930, the standard American manufacturing process stamped out a thin, recessed brass baseplate. However, when Gillette's British factory in England tried to manufacture 2-piece versions of this razor, they ran into a structural problem. The central groove on the baseplate made the metal too thin to securely crimp the heavy handle tube without cracking or breaking. British Gillette Invents the RFB to fix this structural weakness. British engineers "beefed up" the floor of the baseplate, leaving a thick, elevated, flat diamond plateau right in the center. This Raised Flat Bottom provided the necessary structural thickness to securely attach the handle. Because it shaved incredibly smooth and was highly durable, it became the gold standard of British-made Gillette razors.
Because Rotbart was an official German subsidiary under the Gillette corporate umbrella, they shared all manufacturing assets, patents, and blueprints. In the 1930s, Gillette used the Rotbart factory to manufacture and distribute its high-end European models. Gillette simply sent the British RFB baseplate tooling to Germany, allowing Rotbart to release iconic German-market razors utilizing the exact same RFB head.
The reason Rotbart used the Short Comb design instead of Gillette’s traditional American Long Comb comes down to regional market preferences in 1930s Europe, specifically a cultural demand for a more aggressive, precise shave.
While Gillette’s corporate headquarters dictates engineering, its regional subsidiaries traditionally adapt designs to local consumer habits. The choice of a short comb for Rotbart was driven by three main factors:
1. The European Preference for "Blade Feel"In the 1930s, American and British shavers generally preferred a smoother, more forgiving shave. Gillette designed the Long Comb teeth to gently glide across the skin and lift flat hairs, reducing the amount of exposed blade contact.In contrast, the German and Central European markets (where Rotbart dominated) preferred highly efficient, rigid, and aggressive shaving tools. The Short Comb design exposes more of the blade edge directly to the skin. It allowed German shavers the close, strict alignment they were traditionally accustomed to with straight razors
.2. Blade Rigidity and control mechanically, the two comb styles behave very differently:Gillette's Long Comb: The longer, tapered teeth flex slightly more under pressure and allow more shaving lather to remain on the skin.Rotbart's Short Comb: The shorter, blockier teeth allow the razor's baseplate to clamp the thin steel blade closer to its cutting edge. This extra clamping rigidity completely eliminates "blade chatter" (micro-vibrations of the blade against thick stubble)
.3. Adapting to German beard styles. During the interwar period, precise mustache and beard grooming was highly fashionable in Germany. Short comb .razors give the user a cleaner, unobstructed line of sight right up to the edge of the blade, making it far easier to map out straight geometric lines around facial hair than a bulky long comb head.
Because Gillette owned Rotbart, they didn't just let Rotbart copy the head; Gillette intentionally manufactured Short Comb Raised Flat Bottom (RFB) baseplates specifically for the German market. When Gilette realize that they made great razor they start selling Rotbart RFB under 7 o clock brand in UK and French
1933: The first 7 O'Clock RFB sets hit the market. These were branded specifically under the 7 O'Clock name but utilized the exact premium British Gillette RFB tooling. They were typically packaged in ornate metal lithographed cases or cardboard boxes labeled "7 O'Clock Safety Razor."
1933–1938: Production continued through the mid-to-late 1930s. The earliest versions (1933–1935) featured slightly thinner comb teeth, while the later iterations (1936–1938) shifted to a thicker, sturdier tooth profile.Because the 7 O'Clock RFB razors shared the exact same smooth-shaving geometry as the legendary British Gillette #44 and #77 sets, they are considered some of the best open-comb razors ever produced.
NOW WE GO TO THE ITALY AND THERE IS - TRIS
You said:Headquarters Alemanni L., MilanStab. Alemanni L., Milan (abbreviated from Stabilimento Leonida Alemanni, Milan) was a historic Italian factory from Milan active during the first half of the 20th century. It was primarily known for the production of lithographed tin boxes and metal haberdashery.
Key products of the factory
In the 1930s, Italy operated under a strict economic policy of "Autarchia" (Autarky), which heavily restricted foreign imports to force domestic production. Foreign brands like Gillette and German Rotbart could not easily ship ready-made steel safety razors into Italy without facing crippling taxes or outright bans.
2. How Stabilimento Alemani Stepped InTo keep selling razors in the Italian market, the design blueprints were licensed or adapted locally. Stabilimento Luigi Alemani in Milan took the geometry of the German Rotbart and the classic Gillette Old Type Single Ring and manufactured it entirely on Italian soil using domestic metals.The Price: The Tris razor originally sold for 5 Lire.The Packaging: Because of the autarkic laws, the vintage tin boxes feature strict Italian typography and linguistic styles mandated by the government at the time
.3. Why the "Rotbart Short Comb" Connection RemainsEven though Luigi Alemani stamped out these razors in Milan, the technical specifications and blade geometry directly mirrored the German Rotbart design ethos. Because Gillette and Rotbart dominated European razor engineering, local independent manufacturing plants like Alemani used their exact, proven blocky head structures and short-comb teeth distribution to ensure the razor would perfectly fit standard European double-edge blades.
I originally intended to write about RFB razors in another post. However, as I sorted data after data, wanting to chronologically completely illuminate the history of my favorite family of the double-edged razors, I got a preaty much mammoth post. I apologize in advance if it is too extensive, but I hope that it will at least provide all the information about RFB razors in one place.
Alsto huugh thanks to Leonard Jacobs also better known as Jake for huuugh amount of historical data I used in this post.
RFB stands for "raised flat bottom”. This is the generic name (given by collectors and the wet shaving community) to a family of razors that includes many different models and manufacturers, and that have been produced over a period of 20 or so years from 1930’s to some 1950’s.
Key feature of the RFB Razors is Base Plate Design: unlike the standard American Gillette NEW models which have a recessed slot, the RFB has a completely flat bottom plate with a distinctly raised center ridge where the blade rests.
RFB razors include several models made by the following manufacturers:
- Gillette
- Rotbart
- 7 o'clock
- Tris
- Abercrombie & Fitch
So we start with 7 O’clock. WHY? Well because they because they created something that should have enabled the further evolution of Gillette and the revolution of wet shaving SLOTED DE BLADE .
Henry Gaisman founded 7 O'Clock razor company around 1914–1915. As the founder of the AutoStrop Safety Razor Company, Gaisman launched 7 O'Clock as a closely related British subsidiary. Because they were part of the same corporate umbrella, AutoStrop and 7 O'Clock freely shared manufacturing patents to compete directly with Gillette
The Slot Design: 7 O'Clock's major contribution to shaving history was inventing a specific slot pattern for razor blades. By integrating this slot alongside Gillette’s existing three-hole punch design, 7 O'Clock created a blade that could fit multiple razor types, securing a massive competitive advantage.
The British patent numbers 272 629 and 272 763 are legendary in wet-shaving history, as they represent the literal pivot point where 7 O'Clock forced Gillette into an architectural redesign of their razors.
These specific numbers refer to the "slotted blade" patents filed in the late 1920s by the 7 O'Clock Razor Co. (under their corporate vehicle, The Sunbeam Razor Co. Ltd. of London/Sheffield). The Strategy: To protect their market share in the UK and Europe, Henry Gaisman and his team did not file the new "slotted blade" designs directly under the famous 7 O'Clock or AutoStrop names. Instead, they utilized The Sunbeam Razor Co. Ltd. of London/Sheffield as their legal vehicle to quietly register the patents.
What These Patents Protected. Prior to these patents, Gillette blades used a simple three-hole alignment system (a center hole for the handle screw and two outer holes for alignment studs). Gillette held a monopoly on this design
To beat the monopoly, 7 O'Clock engineered and patented:The Longitudinal Slot: A long center cutout that connected the alignment holes. The "Universal Fit": This slot design allowed 7 O'Clock blades to perfectly fit Gillette’s existing three-pin razors, but it also fit 7 O'Clock's own proprietary "bar alignment" razors.
Why They Are Printed Together? If you look at a vintage 1930s Gillette Goodwill safety razor, a 1930s 7 O'Clock box, or international vintage newspaper advertisements, you will often see "BRIT. PAT. NOS. 272629 - 272763" stamped side-by-side. When Gillette realized these two British patents effectively allowed a competitor to steal their blade market share, they didn't just copy the idea—they bought the patents. Following the 1930s acquisition, Gillette legally adopted the 7 O'Clock slot configuration and was legally required to stamp these exact patent numbers onto their newly designed Goodwill and New type razors to protect their newly acquired intellectual property.
Rotbart.
Once there was Hugo Büchner. Hugo Buchner had started his razor blade production in 1907 in Berlin. The Büchner factory had originally been a mechanical workshop, but eventually grew into a factory for machines and other devices. Hugo Büchner produced razor blades at this factory, beginning in 1907, first using the “Luna” brand, later “Mond-Extra”.
Otto Roth started his company in 1913 under the name Roth & Linder G.m.b.H. (the equivalent of an American L.L.C.) Prior to this time, Roth was employed as chief engineer for Hugo Büchner. During the WWI (1914 to 1918), Otto Roth’s practical and well-made razor blades became quite successful, especially among the younger German soldiers. During WWI, German soldiers began to transition from straight edge razors to double edged razors and blades. As a result, during and after the Great War, German men became a major market for razors and razor blades. Following WWI, the German razor blade industry gained increased momentum and developed into a major competitor for Gillette. Gillette’s marketing strategy had been to sell inexpensive razors and relatively pricey blades, whereas German companies produced high quality blades in large quantities, and sold them at relatively low prices so they could supply the entire European market.
The company began to dominate the German market with its razor and blade products. In 1918 Roth changed the company into the Otto Roth G.m.b.H., and then in the year 1921, by conversion, into an Aktiengesellschaft or A.G., (the equivalent of an American P.L.C.), which created an even more favorable structure for the business.
In 1919 – Otto Roth registered the Rotbart trademark. Otto Roth’s surname, Roth, is pronounced in German almost the same as the word “rot” which is German for the word “red”. Rotbart means “red beard”, which might have been a good shaving brand name on its own. However Red Beard, or in Italian “Barbarossa” was also the nickname of the German Holy Roman Emperor Frederick I, the red-bearded hero, a symbol of German unity, which probably was the reason why the brand name Rotbart was such a perfect choice for razors and blades made for the German market.
The repeated expansions and relocations of the production centers of Roth's company are indications of the rapid growth of the Otto Roth A.G. Eventually, in 1925, Roth took over his main rival Büchner-Werke A. G., and through this merger, ended his main competitive rivalry. Their widely renowned and high-quality products were jointly distributed under the brand "Rotbart/Mond-Extra".
Enter Gillette
As a result of this growth of Otto Roth’s shaving products’ business, in 1926 Gillette (although they had already established a relatively strong presence in Germany) purchased a controlling interest in Roth-Büchner, one of it's most successful competitors. At this time, Roth-Büchner produced highly recognized products, and was producing over 250 private label brands of double edged razor blades and razors. Principal among these were its own Rotbart, Rothbart, Minors, and Luxuosa brands. Roth-Büchner Aktiengesellschaft was headquartered in Berlin, and had been there since the merger of Otto Roth and Hugo Büchner, in 1925.
When Gillette purchased controlling interest in Roth-Büchner, Otto Roth was named the General Director for all of Gillette's European interests, and maintained his offices in Berlin, while managing several razor and blade factories throughout Europe.
Establishing a plant in the United States was considered a risky proposition; but, in 1926, Gillette opened a small Roth-Buchner branch at 11 - 15 East Runyon Street in Newark; New Jersey. This, the same location that was originally leased by King Gillette, in 1905, for his brother Mott, and a mechanical engineer named Leach King. Mott was in charge of razor case design, while Leach was designing and building machinery for the Boston, Canadian, and new European factories. It was to Leach, that Gillette, in 1907, desiring to offer for sale a more compact "pocket edition" razor, sent the legendary Italian bracelet, which inspired Leach's designs for the future American Button Company Pocket Edition sets.
The following year, 1927, Gillette ventured further towards gaining full control of it's competition, by purchasing Otto Roth, a subsidiary of Roth- Buchner, which had not been included in the original purchase. The Otto Roth subsidiary produced the Gentleman Otto razor, and the Royal Crown (1928), and Cosmopolitan (1929), blades. By 1927, razor blade production at Roth Buchner had achieved the volume of one million blades daily.
Now we have to go to 1928 january 14. Henry Jaques Gaisman, founder and head of AutoStrop safety razor received further patents on his new blade, assigned them to Probak Corp.
Henry J. Gaisman’s 1928 patent refers to the Probak “butterfly” blade, an innovative double-edged safety razor blade with a filigree design in its center. Engineered to fit Gillette razors while avoiding existing patents, the success of this technology forced Gillette to merge with Gaisman's company, AutoStrop. Gaisman developed this blade and founded the Probak Razor Corporation in 1928. The specific details of this pivotal period include:
The Patent: Gaisman was awarded a foundational patent on an improved, specific "H" holed blade on February 7, 1928. A reissue patent was later granted in January 1930.
To understand why Henry Gaisman’s Probak patent was so dangerous to Gillett you have to look at the specific legal mechanics, production engineering, and corporate timing of the late 1920s.
It was not just a question of having a slot; it was about the legal priority of the specific geometry and manufacturing process of that slot..
Henry Gaisman filed his patent for the specific "H-shaped" and butterfly filigree cutout earlier, and he was awarded U.S. Patent RE17567E on January 14, 1930.
Gillette was still waiting on their own pending patents for their new "Kroman" slotted blade. Because Gaisman's patent was approved first, Gaisman legally owned the rights to the specific blade geometry required to fit into modern, alignment-bar safety razors.
2. Backward Compatibility vs. Forward Lockout
Gillette's entire business model relied on selling blades to the millions of men who already owned old Gillette razors (which aligned blades using three round studs). Gillette wanted to introduce a new razor with a solid alignment bar, requiring a new slotted blade, so they could renew their monopoly
.Gaisman's Masterstroke: Gaisman designed the Probak butterfly slot so it would perfectly fit both the old Gillette three-pin razors and Gillette's upcoming alignment-bar razors.
The Threat: If Gillette launched their new razor, a customer could just buy a cheaper Probak blade to put inside it. Gillette was about to lose the monopoly on their own future razor before it even launched
3. The "Continuous Strip" Manufacturing Advantage
For decades, Gillette manufactured blades by stamping them out of sheet metal individual-by-individual.Gaisman figured out a method to manufacture blades using a continuous strip of steel, which was significantly cheaper, faster, and prevented the blades from warping or cracking during the tempering process.Gaisman’s patent didn't just cover the slot's shape; it protected the exact structural perforations necessary to allow a continuous strip of brittle steel to be processed and flexed without breaking. Gillette’s engineers tried to copy this method for their new blade, directly violating Gaisman's production patent.
4. The Knockout Blow: Gillette's Financial Fraud
When AutoStrop/Probak officially sued Gillette for patent infringement in April 1930, Gillette's legal team realized they were highly likely to lose. To save themselves, Gillette proposed a buyout/merger. However, during the mandatory financial audit required for the merger, Gaisman’s accountants discovered that Gillette had been artificially inflating its earnings reports for years to hide declining sales. Armed with both a superior patent and proof of corporate fraud that would ruin Gillette on Wall Street, Gaisman had complete leverage. He forced the merger on his own terms, taking control of Gillette and becoming its chairman.
So now we have all:
Three brands that made RFB Gillete, Rotbart and 7 O’clock and blade which need new razor.
So who made first RFB?
Gillette - simple as that.
When Gillette released its "NEW" long-comb safety razor design in 1930, the standard American manufacturing process stamped out a thin, recessed brass baseplate. However, when Gillette's British factory in England tried to manufacture 2-piece versions of this razor, they ran into a structural problem. The central groove on the baseplate made the metal too thin to securely crimp the heavy handle tube without cracking or breaking. British Gillette Invents the RFB to fix this structural weakness. British engineers "beefed up" the floor of the baseplate, leaving a thick, elevated, flat diamond plateau right in the center. This Raised Flat Bottom provided the necessary structural thickness to securely attach the handle. Because it shaved incredibly smooth and was highly durable, it became the gold standard of British-made Gillette razors.
Because Rotbart was an official German subsidiary under the Gillette corporate umbrella, they shared all manufacturing assets, patents, and blueprints. In the 1930s, Gillette used the Rotbart factory to manufacture and distribute its high-end European models. Gillette simply sent the British RFB baseplate tooling to Germany, allowing Rotbart to release iconic German-market razors utilizing the exact same RFB head.
The reason Rotbart used the Short Comb design instead of Gillette’s traditional American Long Comb comes down to regional market preferences in 1930s Europe, specifically a cultural demand for a more aggressive, precise shave.
While Gillette’s corporate headquarters dictates engineering, its regional subsidiaries traditionally adapt designs to local consumer habits. The choice of a short comb for Rotbart was driven by three main factors:
1. The European Preference for "Blade Feel"In the 1930s, American and British shavers generally preferred a smoother, more forgiving shave. Gillette designed the Long Comb teeth to gently glide across the skin and lift flat hairs, reducing the amount of exposed blade contact.In contrast, the German and Central European markets (where Rotbart dominated) preferred highly efficient, rigid, and aggressive shaving tools. The Short Comb design exposes more of the blade edge directly to the skin. It allowed German shavers the close, strict alignment they were traditionally accustomed to with straight razors
.2. Blade Rigidity and control mechanically, the two comb styles behave very differently:Gillette's Long Comb: The longer, tapered teeth flex slightly more under pressure and allow more shaving lather to remain on the skin.Rotbart's Short Comb: The shorter, blockier teeth allow the razor's baseplate to clamp the thin steel blade closer to its cutting edge. This extra clamping rigidity completely eliminates "blade chatter" (micro-vibrations of the blade against thick stubble)
.3. Adapting to German beard styles. During the interwar period, precise mustache and beard grooming was highly fashionable in Germany. Short comb .razors give the user a cleaner, unobstructed line of sight right up to the edge of the blade, making it far easier to map out straight geometric lines around facial hair than a bulky long comb head.
Because Gillette owned Rotbart, they didn't just let Rotbart copy the head; Gillette intentionally manufactured Short Comb Raised Flat Bottom (RFB) baseplates specifically for the German market. When Gilette realize that they made great razor they start selling Rotbart RFB under 7 o clock brand in UK and French
1933: The first 7 O'Clock RFB sets hit the market. These were branded specifically under the 7 O'Clock name but utilized the exact premium British Gillette RFB tooling. They were typically packaged in ornate metal lithographed cases or cardboard boxes labeled "7 O'Clock Safety Razor."
1933–1938: Production continued through the mid-to-late 1930s. The earliest versions (1933–1935) featured slightly thinner comb teeth, while the later iterations (1936–1938) shifted to a thicker, sturdier tooth profile.Because the 7 O'Clock RFB razors shared the exact same smooth-shaving geometry as the legendary British Gillette #44 and #77 sets, they are considered some of the best open-comb razors ever produced.
NOW WE GO TO THE ITALY AND THERE IS - TRIS
You said:Headquarters Alemanni L., MilanStab. Alemanni L., Milan (abbreviated from Stabilimento Leonida Alemanni, Milan) was a historic Italian factory from Milan active during the first half of the 20th century. It was primarily known for the production of lithographed tin boxes and metal haberdashery.
Key products of the factory
- Tin boxes (Scatole di latta) : During the 1920s and 1930s, the factory produced luxuriously painted tin boxes for the packaging of colonial goods, coffee, teas and sweets.
- "TRIS" Razors : Around 1930, this plant produced a razor called "TRIS",
- Promotional items : They produced small metal packaging and promotional materials for Italian factories and shops from that period.
In the 1930s, Italy operated under a strict economic policy of "Autarchia" (Autarky), which heavily restricted foreign imports to force domestic production. Foreign brands like Gillette and German Rotbart could not easily ship ready-made steel safety razors into Italy without facing crippling taxes or outright bans.
2. How Stabilimento Alemani Stepped InTo keep selling razors in the Italian market, the design blueprints were licensed or adapted locally. Stabilimento Luigi Alemani in Milan took the geometry of the German Rotbart and the classic Gillette Old Type Single Ring and manufactured it entirely on Italian soil using domestic metals.The Price: The Tris razor originally sold for 5 Lire.The Packaging: Because of the autarkic laws, the vintage tin boxes feature strict Italian typography and linguistic styles mandated by the government at the time
.3. Why the "Rotbart Short Comb" Connection RemainsEven though Luigi Alemani stamped out these razors in Milan, the technical specifications and blade geometry directly mirrored the German Rotbart design ethos. Because Gillette and Rotbart dominated European razor engineering, local independent manufacturing plants like Alemani used their exact, proven blocky head structures and short-comb teeth distribution to ensure the razor would perfectly fit standard European double-edge blades.
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