Recommendations wanted! ...and tip or 2.

[Downhill]

So, new noob to wet shaving here.

I started wet shaving with safety razor about 2 months ago, and so far it been going great. Done mapping out my bread, found few great blades by testing punch of them etc etc. However... I have quite oily and "sensitive" skin. Not sure about sensitive part anymore, but I do get quite bit of razor bumbs still. And when using alum block as part of post shave, my whole beard area stings, as in cheeks and chin with neck area being most sensitive. This has lead me to realize that I might use too aggressive razor. And now I'm willing to spend money for it. So I need recommendations for something that is similar to Merkur 34c. I could buy Merkur it self, but 2 biggest suppliers here in Finland is out stock of that silver/metal version. There are gold versions available but I don't know is its worth to spend 5 euros extra for looks only. I want to know if there is any other milder razors available like Merkur. I'm aware about The Outlaw but that is not available here, and it goes too much over my price range with customs and shipping, not to mention it's price overall.

I favourite blades so far has been Voskhod and Muhle. I might need to revisit Personna prep blue (those USA made personnas) but it lacked feedback (audio and feel) while shaving, but other felt really mild. Any recommendations for milder blades to use with r89 clone.

That reminds me, here the razor I use:

Safety Razor Aiguisé

Dick Johnson Aiguise Safety Razor is the perfect choice for those who want a stylish and high-quality razor. This razor complements your gold teeth and black Amex card perfectly, adding a touch of luxury to your shaving routine. Aiguise is designed especially for beginners, and its closed comb...

dickjohnson.store

It's germany made, so while not completly sure, I think is it made by Muhle but with customized handle for said product line, but otherwise being exactly same as Muhle r89.

I also have vintage ball-end 3-piece Gillette from 50s (England made) given to me by my granpa, but I only have tried it twice.

As for soaps and pre-shaves... Proraso red line. I also have soap cream from where I bought my razor. I think I'm gonna go and give a try with Proraso white, but if you guys have good soap recommendation for sensitive skin. Also what you guys think about pre-shave cream vs. pre-shave oil?

What I have available without ordering from abroad can be found here:

Nordic Shaving Company - wet shaving, beard care, skin care - and the home of NSC shaving soaps

Nordic Shaving Company - wet shaving, beard care, skin care, hair care. The home of NSC shaving products and Nordic Beards beard oils. Fast shipping worldwide!

en.nordicshaving.com

So to cap up, I need recommendations for my sensitive and oily skin about:

- milder razor
- blade
- Soap

Still going on trying to find good exfoliating face cleaner/washes. I also might be even lighter with my razor than I am now and might need to look up to get my lather more hydrated.

Sorry about such long post and I thank you in advance any kind recommendations you guy give.

best regards

Downhill

 

[R181]

My guess is that your skin irritation post shave is due to not having your shaving technique and lathering technique worked out yet rather than issues with your shave gear.

Try concentrating on finding and keeping the razor at the right angle and use no pressure on the razor. Let the weight of the razor do the work and just guide it around your face. To find the right angle for a razor, place the head flat on your face with the handle parallel to the floor. Slowly rotate the handle downward till you just start to feel the blade on your skin. The should be a good starting point. You will have to try and maintain that angle yourself around all the curves and angles on your face unlike cart razors that have pivoting heads on do that for you.

How much the alum stings post shave is a good indicator of how good your shaving/lather technique is. The less it stings the better you are getting at shaving. I also have oily skin and pimples from plugged pores. After I started using alum that issue seemed to clear up. Also making a good face lather seems to be all the exfoliation that I need. The razor itself will exfoliate your skin too.

Hope this helps

Bob

 

[Burgundy]

There will be other people in with their views but just a couple of things from me.

Use your inherited Tech. It ought to be mild and, as long as its blade gap is consistent, gentle enough for your request. Use up your blade packs one and a time so you truly get used to their nuances. Don’t necessarily see the solution as being to get rid of your DE89 clone. Assuming it’s a good copy, the DE89 isn’t radically different in feel to the 34c HD you’ve been looking at. Again assuming it’s a good copy, the DE89 has been used successfully by shavers for decades as a middle-of-the-road entry (and for some terminal) option. This would mean that your technique is likely to be the issue, not your hardware. In a similar vein, unless you’re allergic to the Proraso, issues with your lather are likely to be solved by getting better at lathering than buying a new product.

Don’t bother with an exfoliating face wash. You need a gentle cleanser - ideally go to the pharmacy and look for a Euro/French brand like La Roche Posay, Avene, Vichy, Bioderma and look for something in their lines for combination to oily skin. Don’t bother with alum either. Use a moisturiser after your shave that is similarly formulated for your skin type. These typically have a gel-like consistency (as opposed to being ‘creamy’). A bit of aloe vera gel is fine if you just want something immediately cooling. Men’s grooming is miles behind the skincare curve when it comes to still using alcohol-based aftershaves and lotions.

 

[TobyC]

That '50's razor is probably a Tech, and is the perfect razor for you. The Personna or Astra blades are smooth and easy, and that Proraso white is good too. The best thing for you now is to shave, it will become more natural and your face will become accustomed to it, you may want to shave every other day for a while.

 

[Downhill]

That '50's razor is probably a Tech, and is the perfect razor for you. The Personna or Astra blades are smooth and easy, and that Proraso white is good too. The best thing for you now is to shave, it will become more natural and your face will become accustomed to it, you may want to shave every other day for a while.

Yup, a Tech allright. I was actually going to try it with Personna blades. With my r89 clone, personnas feedback was non-existent tho very very smooth. Only tries with it was with Astra Greens.

@Burgundy and @R181 , I agree on lather. Tho, don't know if it's just me but Proraso red feels kind of "dry". I mean, it feels easy to lather but get very foamy and bubbly easily if not paying attention when adding water to it. I've heard Proraso white is more forgiving on that aspect. Besides, proraso is cheap anyway so it won't hurt wallet too much to try. I've always try get my lather to look this shiny yoghurt kind of foam, but most likely my one minute is in reality 30 seconds.

I did went to pharmacy (yesterday in fact) and bought what pharmacist recommended. I'm about to try it today. But I need to exfoliate my face regurlarly as I get whiteheads really easily. But yeah.. I might forgo from using exfoliating washes before tha shave.... that's something I haven't tried yet.

My post shave routine is rinsing with cold water -> alum block -> another rinse -> aftershave balm (nivea sensitive) and letting it air dry then possibly adding balm bit later again.

I need to give a try on razor angle from top-cap onwards... for now I've used that "safety-bar method" (placing razor parallel to skin and raising the angle from there)

Thanks for all the advice... Much appreciated!

 

[R181]

If you are troubled by oily skin, putting on a greasy after shave balm is not helping matters any I believe.

WRT the lather, here is two ways to create a lather.

Lathering Tutorial - How to lather a shaving soap - YouTube

Bob

 

[sɐǝɹpu∀]

Razor: use the Tech at no extra cost. A better mildish DE razor is hard to find.
Pre: Face lather. Nothing else required.
Technique: Make sure to use no pressure. Ride the cap not the bar.
Post: Try not using the Nivea-allegedly-Sensitive. Some guys are allergic to it. It was the sole reason for my “sensitive skin”.
Oily skin: Use alcohol based aftershave.
Practice. It will get better.

 

[Burgundy]

I did went to pharmacy (yesterday in fact) and bought what pharmacist recommended. I'm about to try it today. But I need to exfoliate my face regurlarly as I get whiteheads really easily. But yeah.. I might forgo from using exfoliating washes before tha shave.... that's something I haven't tried yet.

My post shave routine is rinsing with cold water -> alum block -> another rinse -> aftershave balm (nivea sensitive) and letting it air dry then possibly adding balm bit later again.

Look for a leave-on chemical exfoliant containing BHAs. I wouldn’t go straight into using acids daily. You want a gentle facial cleanser for daily use. Next consider a moisturiser or serum containing niacimide. Finally, consider topical retinoids.

You could do a lot worse than La Roche Posay’s Effaclar range.

 

[Downhill]

Post: Try not using the Nivea-allegedly-Sensitive. Some guys are allergic to it. It was the sole reason for my “sensitive skin”.
Oily skin: Use alcohol based aftershave.

Hmm... so far nivea has felt good. It soothes skin nicely and doesn't leave greasy feel. But I guess could try that one too. Prorasos red after-shave smell really good so I'm happy to use it.

 

[Downhill]

Look for a leave-on chemical exfoliant containing BHAs. I wouldn’t go straight into using acids daily. You want a gentle facial cleanser for daily use. Next consider a moisturiser or serum containing niacimide. Finally, consider topical retinoids.

You could do a lot worse than La Roche Posay’s Effaclar range.

What are BHAs? Not quite familiar with english versions of said chemicals. I need to check my moisturisers what they contain.

 

[Burgundy]

What are BHAs? Not quite familiar with english versions of said chemicals. I need to check my moisturisers what they contain.

Beta hydroxy acid - typically salicylic acid. This or benzoyl peroxide are what dermatologists will typically recommend for serious acne. The latter being more irritating but arguably better for significant cases. They would otherwise look at retinoic acid (essentially Vitamin A) - although not in combination with, say, benzoyl peroxide.

Of course, there is an element of these treating symptoms rather than causes of your outbreaks. But there could be multiple factors in that - lifestyle, genetics, what you’re already putting on your face…

 

[TheChrisC]

Beta hydroxy acid - typically salicylic acid. This or benzoyl peroxide are what dermatologists will typically recommend for serious acne. The latter being more irritating but arguably better for significant cases. They would otherwise look at retinoic acid (essentially Vitamin A) - although not in combination with, say, benzoyl peroxide.

Of course, there is an element of these treating symptoms rather than causes of your outbreaks. But there could be multiple factors in that - lifestyle, genetics, what you’re already putting on your face…

I’ve liked seeing your posts with actual skincare science included! A lot of shavers either don’t know or don’t think about it. A life of dealing with acne and skin issues has had me doing loads of research on skincare and there’s so much misinformation around. You’re absolutely spot on about how far behind the shaving world is when it comes to alcohol based splashes etc.

 

[Burgundy]

I’ve liked seeing your posts with actual skincare science included! A lot of shavers either don’t know or don’t think about it. A life of dealing with acne and skin issues has had me doing loads of research on skincare and there’s so much misinformation around. You’re absolutely spot on about how far behind the shaving world is when it comes to alcohol based splashes etc.

There are a few pervasive ideas that just aren’t addressed. One being that people with oily or blemish-prone skin don’t need to moisturise - as though oil and water are the same thing. Another being men not using sun protection - while their womenfolks’ face creams and makeup are formulated with UVA/B filters. There’s also a significant elephant in the room in the form of heavy doses of fragrance in soaps and aftershaves.

Edit: Got rid of a mixed metaphor or two.

 

[TheChrisC]

There are a few pervasive ideas that just aren’t addressed. One being that people with oily or combination skin don’t need to moisturise. Another being men not using sun protection, while their wives’ day creams and makeup are formulated with UVA/B filters. There’s also a significant white elephant in the form of heavy doses of fragrance in soaps and aftershaves.

Absolutely! Agreed entirely. Of course, everyone’s entitled to shave how they want but there’s a lot of skincare that men just miss out on. How to layer their skincare, the myths behind witch hazel, pores opening and closing etc.

 

[Downhill]

Beta hydroxy acid - typically salicylic acid. This or benzoyl peroxide are what dermatologists will typically recommend for serious acne. The latter being more irritating but arguably better for significant cases. They would otherwise look at retinoic acid (essentially Vitamin A) - although not in combination with, say, benzoyl peroxide.

Of course, there is an element of these treating symptoms rather than causes of your outbreaks. But there could be multiple factors in that - lifestyle, genetics, what you’re already putting on your face…

Ahh... Quite a lot of brands and other terms seems to be shortened here to its first letters. I lurked here as quest for few day before creating account and many time was stumped what everyone is talking about... TOBS, LPL etc etc. Shaving jargon is pretty much unknown language for me it seems.

I've been battling with my skin much longer than I've been shaving with safety razors. Long time I just shortened my beard to stubble with trimmer and then let it grow for few weeks before again trimming it shorter. What shave I did was with those cartridge razors.

Nowdays I gravitate to L'oreal products. With quick look they do contain such chemicals as BHA or niacimide, both cleanser and moisturisers. Charcoal scrubs are new thing. Result seems to be hopefull. My face don't look like polished turd so much anymore (face still like turd but hey... at least I can fade into background being more matte ). And I've learned not to get rid of all oils, just reduce it, especially now shaving with DE razors. Oily skin attracts dirt and such, and if you don't get rid of that dirty sebum, you most likely push it all into your pores with DE razor.

Problem with aftershaves are that I tend to do my shaving at evening or night (I'm from Finland, so I go to sauna alot) so kind of feel waste to use nice smelling splashes when you about to go to bed in few hours anyway. Perhaps I should just use disinfectant for wounds (those clear alcohol based ones, not those coloured ones that stings like hell when used on scrapes). Unscented so don't feel a waste and they are quite cheap too.