New to wet shaving and confused with some results.

So I started wet shaving about a month ago. I purchased the Van Der Hagen kit (with a boar brush, soap and mug) as well as a 3 piece DE razor and a box of Astra SP from my local grocery store. I didn't keep the box that the razor came in and it doesn't have any brand markings that I can find so I'm not sure what it is exactly. It may also be VDH, picture included if anyone can identify it. My first few shaves took some getting used to as I learned some technique with both forming a lather as well as taking shorter strokes than I was used to with a cartridge razor. I only do 2 passes, with and across the grain then whatever little touch-ups are necessary.

After a few days I was consistently getting the best, most comfortable shave I've ever had. Super smooth with no irritation. It was really shocking the first time I got that perfect shave. I'd never felt my face so smooth and yet still so comfortable since I was a child. And from there I was hooked. So I decided to experiment and try some other products. I began using Poraso pre-shave and really like it. I tried some poraso shave cream and some Taylor of Old Bond Street tobacco leaf cream. Honestly, I prefer the Van Der Hagen soap over either of the creams. I don't care for that almost lotion-like feel that the creams leave on my face. Next, I bought a Parker 3-Band badger brush. It lathers much better and faster than the VDH boar brush but is very prickly on my skin. The boar is more stiff and less dense but not prickly at all and just feels better on my face.

Next, I decided to try a different razor and purchased a Vikings Blade Crusader adjustable butterfly razor. I stuck to my favorites; the Poraso pre-shave, VDH soap, boar brush, and Astra blade. I started with it on the lowest setting, 1. It was one of the worst shaves I've had in years. Worse than a worn out cartridge. I went back to my original razor for a few days until the irritation and ingrown hairs healed up then gave it another try, this time on the 3 setting. Exact same result: nicks, a lot of irritation, and ingrown hairs. Once again, I returned to my original gear and was back to smooth, comfortable shaves.

So here's my confusion, what is this Vikings Blade razor doing differently than my other razor that results in such dramatically different results? I just don't understand how the razor itself can have that big of an impact on performance. What am I missing?

I would still like to move to a butterfly razor for convenience over the 3 piece but not at the cost of an inferior shave.
 

Attachments

R181

Grumpy old man
Welcome to the forum. The only thing I can think of is that the Vikings Blade razor requires a different angle on the blade than your 3 piece razor. You may have adjust your shave technique to suit the razor.

Bob
 

beb023

Guru
I've never gotten a great shave from a butterfly/TTO razor. Bite the bullet and get a Muhle R89 Grande or Twist. You'll be eternally grateful. Then be patient as 90% of your success will come down to technique, which takes time. :thumbsup:
 

Twelvefret

Forum GOD!
At this point, I cannot agree that you should purchase another holder. I only use Astra SP and VDH soaps like you do. I would work on technique, angles, and beard mapping. In other words, learn the direction your beard hair grows. For example, on my corners, I find I need to go against the grain. Puffing out your cheeks can be useful.

Also, I rinse the blade and holder after each shave. Sometimes I will remove the blade entirely. This might give the blade more longevity.
 

chazt

Forum !
Welcome to the forum.

The best advice you’ll get at this stage of your journey has already been given. Map your beard (i.e., the direction of your whiskers’ growth) and work on your technique.

Have fun and be patient. You’ll get there :okay:
 
Last edited:
Thank you for the advice but I think you may not have read the post in it's entirety and replied with a response you're used to giving to all newbies.

When using my 3 piece razor, I get perfectly smooth shaves with no irritation. It was only when I tried switching to the adjustable that I had problems.
 

Tonyschin

Pogonotomist
Thank you for the advice but I think you may not have read the post in it's entirety and replied with a response you're used to giving to all newbies.

When using my 3 piece razor, I get perfectly smooth shaves with no irritation. It was only when I tried switching to the adjustable that I had problems.
All razors and faces are different, time and technique is the key.
No 2 people are the same and some razors can be as rough as the proverbial, however, learning the technique for "that" razor could produce good results. It's the same with known aggressive razors, for me learning to get a shave from them is part of the fun.
 
Last edited:

chazt

Forum !
Thank you for the advice but I think you may not have read the post in it's entirety and replied with a response you're used to giving to all newbies.

When using my 3 piece razor, I get perfectly smooth shaves with no irritation. It was only when I tried switching to the adjustable that I had problems.
I read your post. You may likely need to make minor adjustments. Technique often requires modification relative to the tools used.
 

UKRob

Forum GOD!
There‘s a sweet spot with a razor - too steep and the blade skips over your whiskers and too shallow it won’t cut. Experiment by holding the razor at a right angle and then dropping until it cuts easily with little pressure. If you compare both razors side on you may be able to see the difference in geometry referred to above and also the blade gap between high and low settings.
 

HardLight

Veteran
It’s important to note; swapping blade brand will also make a razor behave a bit differently. However, not in the terms of proper angle. Example; I swapped out blades in my Muhle R95. Nacet for Wizamet SI, I felt it was a better shave “to me” all the way around.

Take your time.
 

carbold

Carlo
The culprit is most likely the different blade exposure. Different razors have different exposure. i.e. how much the blade sticks out. I found that blade exposure is more important than blade gap in giving unpleasant shaves.
 

UKRob

Forum GOD!
The culprit is most likely the different blade exposure. Different razors have different exposure. i.e. how much the blade sticks out. I found that blade exposure is more important than blade gap in giving unpleasant shaves.
And that’s where pressure comes into the equation. When you use a straight razor, exposure is irrelevant - but you are spot on in pointing it out to a newer user.
 
Top