Very nice comment man!!!THIS!
I had the same with MDC and found loading heavy past that foamy stage made it great.
King Randy has been spoilt by the new Proraso recipe![]()
Mem, the new super formula by Proraso is very good. I didn't like the creams so much, but the white soap was really dense and slick. The Red must be even better.Is the new Proraso that good? I need to get me some cream and soap me thinks
Mem, my soap compared to yours is harder. Also, has darker color.Ok so mine is a 2 year old soap.
Pic 1 is my set up and how much soap I scoped out. I went in with a damp brush and worked the soap and added water little by little. Pic 2 is after I started getting the sheen and depth of lather that I am familiar with for LPL. I tested in my hand to make sure it wasn't foamy. I carried on beating out the foam and air and adding water. Pic 3 is my final lather I would start applying to my face and start painting with. To be honest it prob need a touch more water but it was ok. Pic 4 shows after I washed out my bowl and brush there was still soap not used.
LPL like a few soaps with high coconut oil levels can play at being foamy very quick. You almost have to beat the foam out and increase water very slow. You'll be tricked into thinking you have a lather cos its burst into foam but its still too dry and its your proto lather.
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Interesting. Every soap should lather easily though, I don't know what I was doing wrong exactly, the only thing I know for sure is that these soaps are overpriced.No surprise, mine put to trash one year ago with others LPL I will never buy more this brand.
Interesting. Every soap should lather easily though, I don't know what I was doing wrong exactly, the only thing I know for sure is that these soaps are overpriced.
Bin it, George. Too many good ones to waste time with it.So, gents, tried something yesterday I don't prefer usually.
The Marco Method. A very wet, soaking 24mm Tuxedo on the soap's surface for more than a minute, it exploded at first filling the sink with suds and was really messy.
I didn't stop, just increased the loading speed without much pressure. I had to get rid of the bubbles as @Mr Bigmem said. When water was starting to be absorbed, I pressed the brush to splay and kept loading.
Then I went bowl lathering and even added some more water, very slowly. Now that is some lather here!
I couldn't take any pictures, but I will. This is not an easy soap to load and lather, but this method seems to work. It is messy, frothy at first but it's ok.
It is not one of the best soaps out there but it is more than OK.
+1Bin it, George. Too many good ones to waste time with it.
The marco method I find works best with triple milled or hard soaps that need lots of water and loading. LPL needs gradual water even if it is thirsty. It really isn't hard once you if the patternSo, gents, tried something yesterday I don't prefer usually.
The Marco Method. A very wet, soaking 24mm Tuxedo on the soap's surface for more than a minute, it exploded at first filling the sink with suds and was really messy.
I didn't stop, just increased the loading speed without much pressure. I had to get rid of the bubbles as @Mr Bigmem said. When water was starting to be absorbed, I pressed the brush to splay and kept loading.
Then I went bowl lathering and even added some more water, very slowly. Now that is some lather here!
I couldn't take any pictures, but I will. This is not an easy soap to load and lather, but this method seems to work. It is messy, frothy at first but it's ok.
It is not one of the best soaps out there but it is more than OK.
To be honest I didn't even load heavy. If you look at my post earlier on you'll see how much soap I put in my bowl and what remained even after the lather was washed out. I'd say its load slowly and more dry and then hydrate slowly as well. Loading heavy will give you a dry lather and will feel like its not slick. It will be tacky in the residual slickness and have dragYes, this was good advice. Load heavy and hydrate slowly.