etchings, sand or leave alone
- Thread starter neiasden
- Start date
Estariol
Forum GOD!
If there's rust on te surface where the etching is, i sand or polish it out. For me, getting rid of rust is ahead of keeping an etching intact.
On your blade, the etching seems fairly deep, so i don’t think you'll lose it by sanding and polishing with grits from #240 up. I'd start with #400 on your blade to see if that takes out the scratches, and if it does, go up in fineness. If not, down to #240, then up all the way to polishing grits.
On your blade, the etching seems fairly deep, so i don’t think you'll lose it by sanding and polishing with grits from #240 up. I'd start with #400 on your blade to see if that takes out the scratches, and if it does, go up in fineness. If not, down to #240, then up all the way to polishing grits.
neiasden
Senior Member
awesome. I'm glad to hear you say that without me mentioning it because I thought it was pretty deep also which had me wondering how deep are these scratches and how is the etching so untouched with them in there I haven't done anything except run some 1500 grit over it and look at it and that's as far as I went with it cuz I spent a lot of time on the scales so I don't want to mess it up now like I did my last attempt had it all the way finished and was trying to buff it and I used one of those little bullet shape felts and it like put grooves in it and then it got jerked out of my hand and the blade chipped and then beating with a ball peeing hammer. I'm over it now I learned my lesson so hearing you say that makes me feel like I was on the right track thank you sir
neiasden
Senior Member
well, apparently I don't have that skill, I think it looks like it needs sanded as with the other answer on here I think that's a pretty good answer I think you would agree? I just don't know if I'm capable of making the right decision but I'm going to start sanding it and see the last time I tried that you can't believe the damage I did and how stupid I was because I almost took it completely off and again I won't mention any names of blades or anything one of them really made me mad one of them not so much I expect a couple more flub UPS like cracking a scale while painting it or something but I'm aware of it so I hope I don't
neiasden
Senior Member
it's obvious how little I know LOL but when you say, sand or polish do you mean polish with 1500 grit sandpaper or flitz and a rag? you are talking to a total novice I got my first straight razor 3 months ago
Estariol
Forum GOD!
@neiasden
I'm a noob too but with more experience in polishing other stuff and watching restoration videos on youtube
The basics are the same with all metals, described above, straight razors only need more caution because they're thin, fragile and sharp, even when you think theyre not.
As far as where sanding stops and polishing starts, i assume (carefully, because assumption is the mother of all effups) that sanding goes up to, broadly said, 1000-2000 grit, and polishing is everything above that grit.
So, if your razor was in my hands, i'd try sanding from grit(s) described above, untill the scratches are removed, and then try polishing with pre-polish and fine polish paste.
And if you are using a rotating tool, take a lot of care NOT to go with the blade edge against the direction of the rotation. That's a certain recipe for disaster. And take care not to overheat the blade, if it changes color, the steel will lose it's temper and won't hold an edge anymore.
I'm a noob too but with more experience in polishing other stuff and watching restoration videos on youtube
The basics are the same with all metals, described above, straight razors only need more caution because they're thin, fragile and sharp, even when you think theyre not.
As far as where sanding stops and polishing starts, i assume (carefully, because assumption is the mother of all effups) that sanding goes up to, broadly said, 1000-2000 grit, and polishing is everything above that grit.
So, if your razor was in my hands, i'd try sanding from grit(s) described above, untill the scratches are removed, and then try polishing with pre-polish and fine polish paste.
And if you are using a rotating tool, take a lot of care NOT to go with the blade edge against the direction of the rotation. That's a certain recipe for disaster. And take care not to overheat the blade, if it changes color, the steel will lose it's temper and won't hold an edge anymore.
neiasden
Senior Member
I've been perfecting my recipe, I had too much pepper in it causing the blade to fly across the room and being turned into target practice for my ball paying hammer LOL I know what you mean by caution on those things it gets away in a hurry. I had to take a week off to let my hands heal I had so many cuts until I figured a routine out LOL thanks for replying@neiasden
I'm a noob too but with more experience in polishing other stuff and watching restoration videos on youtube
The basics are the same with all metals, described above, straight razors only need more caution because they're thin, fragile and sharp, even when you think theyre not.
As far as where sanding stops and polishing starts, i assume (carefully, because assumption is the mother of all effups) that sanding goes up to, broadly said, 1000-2000 grit, and polishing is everything above that grit.
So, if your razor was in my hands, i'd try sanding from grit(s) described above, untill the scratches are removed, and then try polishing with pre-polish and fine polish paste.
And if you are using a rotating tool, take a lot of care NOT to go with the blade edge against the direction of the rotation. That's a certain recipe for disaster. And take care not to overheat the blade, if it changes color, the steel will lose it's temper and won't hold an edge anymore.
Grayswandir
Veteran
Can you get your hands on some radiator hose? A small piece, maybe 2-1/8" long with an outer diameter of a 1/2" is great for wrapping sandpaper around and sanding straight razors blades with. The hose should be stout, not spongy. If you squeeze it between your fingers there shouldn't be a lot of "give". The piece I use looks to be about 1/8" thick. I don't even know if what I'm using is radiator hose to be honest. The inner diameter looks to be about 3/8".
As for scratches, you were given good advice. Start with finer paper and work your way down, that way you don't have to remove the deeper scratches a coarser paper leaves behind unless it's absolutely necessary. Shallow scratches can usually be sanded out with anything between 800 to 1200 grit paper (European "P" Grade [FEPA] - The number will usually have a P next to it). Most of the sandpaper I buy on Amazon is FEPA, not CAMI (American).
Sometimes you'll have to go down to 220 to get rid of pitting and stubborn black rust, but as others have said, a little pitting and patina adds character, some people like it.
neiasden
Senior Member
awesome answer. I will have to copy and paste it in my notes somewhere LOL thank you so much
Grayswandir
Veteran
I'm glad I could be of help.
It works really well too, just make sure you find a way to secure or hold the razor in a safe manner while you do the sanding. I use a little wooden block covered in a piece of old suede leather. It protects the razor and keeps it in place while I sand. I often spritz the razor with water while I sand. The water extends the life of the sandpaper (I also rinse the sandpaper periodically to keep it from gunking up). You can sand dry as well, but your paper won't last as long. I do both, depending on what I'm trying to accomplish.